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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.